An ancient hideaway
Before we arrived for our 2-night stopover, I was unsure whether I should have used one of the nights to add on to our return journey north, when we stopped at Split.
Well, how wrong I would have been.
A helpful guide
If you've yet to discover the delights of Croatia you're in for a treat. While planning our road trip, I used the DK Eyewitness books. I find them extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.
We used a previous version of this book to plan our north to south Croatian road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.
Not to be missed
Trogir truly is a must for your itinerary; I can honestly say that although I enjoyed Split with its stunning Diocletian Palace. Trogir for me was the preferred location to be based at. The pace was a lot more relaxed and tranquil and felt more personable.
Trogir Old Town sits on its own little island, connected by a bridge to Croatia mainland and also to the much larger island of Čiovo, to its south.
When you stroll through the elegant North Gate, immediately you are within the Medieval city walls. Weaving your way through the lanes, all the time trying to take in the differing ancient styles of the balconies, alleys and facades.
The history within its walls and the feeling that you get wandering amongst the cobbled streets is incredible. You can only imagine the thousands of ancient footsteps that have passed through before you.
It has such a wonderfully preserved mixture of architecture, including Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque. Once again, what is so prominent is the Venetian heritage, particularly the bell tower on St Lawrence Cathedral and the town square of St. John that it looks down upon.
Within the town square is the old Town Hall, just wander through the doorway, and you come upon the wonderfully peaceful inner courtyard, and its charming balcony. You feel like you could be in a Shakespeare play.
Surrounded by heritage
Just next to the Town Hall is the Town Loggia, which was once a courthouse & also used for public announcements. Nowadays you may catch Dalmatian a cappella singing.
Discover the lanes
Heading south through the city, try and aim for the South Gate (you may not always pop out where you think) and wander through the 16th Century wooden doors. You’ll then be welcomed by the bustling promenade.
Take a stroll to the end, on the outside of the walls, and you’ll arrive at the Kamerlengo Castle. A mid 15th-century Venetian fortress, from here you can admire some wonderful views of the Adriatic Sea.
You’ll find them
Opposite Trogir Old Town is Čiovo Island; we were using this island as our base as it was so close. But it is certainly worth popping over the bridge to wander amongst the streets and the marina, from here you also get a great view back of Trogir city.
Watch the world go by
As Trogir sits on its own island, it is encircled with moorings and marinas. Boats of all shapes and sizes cruise into the idyllic location, from local tour boats, island hopping sailing yachts to the chartered superyachts.
The palm tree lined Riva that runs the full length of the island is bustling with visitors during the day, but as the evening draws in and the tours have disappeared, it takes on a different serene, elegant feel.
When the sun starts to set, and the golden light lays across the promenade, it must be Aperol Spritz time!!!
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Where we ate
While walking among the lanes, it is difficult not to notice the number of restaurants & konobas with their wonderful aromas emitting from them. The scent of wood burning, fuelling the grills, along with fresh fish tempting you, is too appealing.
There are plenty of places to eat in Trogir, but one of my favourite meals of the whole trip was at Konoba Fortin, on the north side of the island.
A normal deterrent for us are pictures, but there was something about Konoba Fortin that appealed.
Once seated we referred to our list of ‘must try’ foods, and I opted for the Brudet, a fish stew with polenta. Gary went for a plate of Čevapi, little handmade sausages. As we watched other meals arrive, we knew we had made the right choice.
Our food arrived, this was no fast food joint, you knew everything was cooked to order. Gary’s čevapis was delicious, but my Brudet was a masterpiece.
Gary finished with Palacinke – pancakes with a choice of fillings – he went for traditional walnuts after checking on the owner’s favourite.
Where we stayed
Our accommodation for the two nights we were in Trogir was at “Apartments Kapetanovi Dvori”. We chose this apartment, for its location and parking facilities & it did not disappoint on either.
The apartment was clean but a bit basic, although it had a stunning view from the balcony of the bay, with a view back to the old town.
It was while admiring the view that you noticed Trogir is on the flight path for Split airport. Which we didn’t realise before choosing Trogir as a location. It wasn’t constant, and it certainly wouldn’t put me off returning to Trogir.
Would you like a little more?
We have created a little YouTube video of Trogir
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Something for the Traveller
Inspired to visit Trogir?
This beautiful little town comes to life in the evening, so consider it as a base to visit Split.
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