by Janis / 0 comments - Orginally published:17th May 2017

Laying undiscovered for 17 centuries

Just 1km south of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in Southern France, on the fringes of the Alpilles mountains, resided the hidden city of Glanum.

The Salyes originally built this ancient fortified town in the 6th century B.C., though subsequent relations with the Greek world during the 2nd & 1st centuries B.C., added additional Hellenistic styles to the city.

Now, for a small fee, you can explore the remains of this slice of history. It's worth noting children under 18 go free. For more information, check out the archéologique de Glanum website.

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Where is Glanum?

Where to stay near Glanum

Hotel Gounod

We would stay in Saint-Remy de Provence, and when we stay in Saint-Remy, then it has to be the Hotel Gounod.

Hotel Gounod is centrally located with very welcoming staff, delicious Provençal breakfast in the patio/lounge, and private off-site parking is available nearby.

Historic Provence

Then came the Romans
During the early years of Emperor Augustus’ reign around 27 BC, Glanum officially became a Roman colony.
The low brick walls of the remains of the roman baths in the archaeological site of glanum, just outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in the south of france
The remains of the baths
This resulted in the rapid transformation of the city’s architecture, including a new forum, temples, dam and an aqueduct, which supplied water to the town and the public baths.

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The end of Roman Provence

Abandonment
Unfortunately, Glanum didn’t survive the collapse of the Roman Empire, and around 260 A.D., the town was abandoned by its inhabitants.
Columns that once formed part of the Roman temple at the Glanum site on the outskirts of Saint Remy de Provence
Well preserved remains at Glanum
Due to this desertion, the Roman drains and sewers were no longer maintained, and the ruins of the city became flooded and completely covered with sediment, leaving just two visible structures (Les Antiques)
A wide gravel road running through the roman ruins at the glanum archaeological site, just outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in the south of france
Walking through the ancient town

A hidden gem in Provence

Les Antiques
Glanum is mainly known for two very well-preserved Roman monuments built during the 1st century B.C., known as “Les Antiques”. Situated just to the north of the ancient city is a mausoleum and a triumphal arch (said to be the oldest in France).
A free standing Roman triumphal arch on the outskirts of St Remy de Provence.
Thr Triumphal Arch
These ancient monuments became renowned and, from the 16th century, were visited by King Charles IX and other significant figures.
A free standing Roman white stone mausoleum just outside St Remy de Provence set against a blue Sky with wispy white clouds.
The Mausoleum
During this time, these two monuments were the only remaining visible vestiges of the city, and the ancient town lay undiscovered and just a short distance away.

Arrive early

As we were staying in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, we arrived just as it opened. We had this incredible feeling of discovery in having the freedom of the lost city to ourselves.

A cultural activity in Provence

Unearthing history
Around the 17th & 18th centuries, modest excavations were made near “Les Antiques”, but only sculptures and coins were discovered.
The low brick walls of the remains of the roman city in the archaeological site of glanum, just outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in the south of france
The structure to the town
The first organised archaeological digs were carried out on the site from 1921 until 1969; first, they unearthed the surroundings of the basilica, the houses in the northern area and the thermal baths.
A small section of the remains of one temples at the archaeological site of glanum in the provence region of france
Detail everywhere

Then, to the south, the area excavated was from the forum to the Iron Age sanctuary.

Since 1983, further digs and research have once again been underway, unearthing greater knowledge of the ancient city, particularly about the ramparts and twin temples.

If you love Provence as much as we do, you'll want to start planning your visit now.

I so enjoy using the DK Eyewitness books, as they are extremely informative, easy to follow and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more.

We used a previous version of this book to plan our Provencal road trip, now you can grab the revised copy.

DK Provence Cover

A walk through history

The Roman Forums
Within Glanum, two Roman Forums were built. The first was around 20 B.C. and included twin Corinthian temples. The second was between the 1st and 3rd centuries A.D. and housed the central market and place of justice.
The ruins of the Roman temple within the complex of Glanum, just outside the town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
The steps to the Temple
Three columns and a corner of the remains of one temples at the archaeological site of glanum in the provence region of france
The remains of the Temple

With the knowledge gathered of the twin temples, in 1992, restoration of the corner columns on the smaller temple was carried out.

Considering the size of the town, the temples were quite impressive.

The modern cover of the dromos well in the archaeological site of glanum in the provence region of france
The Dromos well
Hellenistic remains have also been discovered beneath the Roman forum, including the dromos well.

Tempted to?

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Mystical Glanum

The Sacred Spring
The healing powers of the sacred spring were said to have given the town a reputation and brought wealth to the city.
The roman stone arch above the dark green waters of the sacred spring at the glanum archaeological site, just outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in the south of france
The Sacred Spring

Why not check out...

We have a couple of other posts to give you a taste of the area. The first is one on the nearby town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

The other is the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where Vincent van Gogh convalesced, and created his “The Starry Night” from there.

Featured image for “Visiting the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France”
Jun. 08, 2021

Visiting the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

Featured image for “Our little secret, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France”
Oct. 02, 2018

Our little secret, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

For the best views of Glanum

Take a climb
The freedom that you are given to wander around Glanum is fantastic. Obviously, there are some restrictions around this ancient dwelling, but you’re generally free to roam at your pleasure.
The view of the roman ruins at the glanum archaeological site from up on high
Climb up to get a better view

Head up above the city, and the view of the archaeological site below is terrific.

It gives a fantastic perspective of the town and provides a greater understanding of the planning and how all the dwellings feed off the main street weaving south.

The view of the roman ruins at the glanum archaeological site from up on high
Looking down at the temple

Have You?

If staying in or around Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, go check it out. Perhaps you have already stayed in this region, what did you discover?

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