by Janis / 8 comments - Orginally published:5th February 2019
A hop, skip and a jump around a corner of the City of London
If I were to mention “Smithfield”, many people would automatically associate it with the iconic meat market that is still in existence in the heart of London. And you’d be correct, as there has been a livestock market on the same site since the 12th century.
However, this small Smithfield region of London has had a colourful past and, on occasion, quite sordid.
Back in the day, it was also used for jousting tournaments.
Just within a few streets and lanes of this area are some fascinating places to discover, incredibly interesting facts and memories of the past that should never be forgotten.
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The unusual goings on...
Where is Smithfield?
How to get to Smithfield
- By Tube
You are in 'Zone One' and the nearest stations are Barbican and Farringdon on the Metropolitan , Circle and Hammersmith & Citylines or Holborn and St Paul's on the Central line.
Don’t forget if you have a contactless bank card, or a card assigned to your phone you tap and pay with that. (For more check out the TFL site(Transport for London))
The Meat Market
A touch of London's historyRemember the early bird catches the worm here. The market opens at 2am and closes at 10am, the best time to arrive to see it in full swing is around 7am.
Red phone boxes in Smithfield Market
The ornate roof in Smithfield Market
The Smithfield market covers almost 10 acres of ground, six and a half of which are covered by buildings.
Catering Meats (Smithfield)
The quirky side of London
The after-work tippleDue to the nature of the market porters' hours, sometimes a refreshing pint was needed after a long shift. To most people, this was breakfast, but to these lads, it was a quick after-work drink with your mates.
Times have changed over the decades; there are now only a couple of pubs open early in the morning for these porters. They are the Art Nouveau "Fox & Anchor" on Charterhouse Street and "The Hope" on Cowcross Street.
I know it's not the healthiest of past times; however, it's a shame to see some of these old traditions ebb away.
Fox & Anchor, Smithfield
The Hope, Smithfield
Also close to the market is the Bishop's Finger, a pub owned by Shepherd Neame, Britain's oldest brewer.
This may keep regular hours, but it's one to consider if you're in the area.
The Bishop's Finger, Smithfield
We have a little book on our shelves that we sometimes delve into when we're about to hit an area of London.
Packed full of historical facts, and broken down into the different regions of London, it's a great resource to help you see what's hidden in plain sight.
Available in Kindle & Hardback editions, it's an excellent addition to anyone's collection who loves London.
A walk through London's history
Giltspur StreetThere are a few things to look out for along Giltspur Street. The first is the church of St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate on the corner with Holborn Viaduct. A church has been recorded on this site since c1137.
On the corner of the churchyard, set in the railings, is London’s first-ever drinking fountain, dating from 1859. The cups are still there on chains.
St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate
London’s first drinking fountain
Heading along Giltspur Street, behind the church is a Watch House.
This was initially built in 1791; however, it was re-erected in 1962 due to WWII bombing.
It is said to have been built to protect the churchyard from body snatchers. With the close vicinity of St. Bartholomew’s hospital, surgeons would pay for the corpses to be stolen so they could be used for medical studies. Urgh
The Watch House
The Golden Boy of Pye Corner
A little further along, on the corner with Cock Lane is the “Golden Boy of Pye Corner”. This golden memorial was erected in memory of the Great Fire of London in 1666. It is ascribed to the Sin of Gluttony.
The Golden Boy once sat above the “Fortune of War” pub, which was pulled down in 1910.
Where to stay in London
If you want to stay in close to the heart of Smithfield, there are plenty of choices. This can be your base to discover the east of London, the City of London, and much more besides.
There are plenty of choices, why not check out Booking.com for something that suits your requirements?
St Bartholomew’s Hospital
Discovering London through the agesFounded in 1123, England’s oldest continually running hospital, “St. Barts”, can also be found here. Amazingly surviving the Great Fire of London and the Blitz.
The hospital was granted to the City of London in 1546 by Henry VIII.
If you pass through the so-named Henry VIII gate, you’ll notice a stone statue of the King above the entrance.
This is believed to be the only remaining statue of him in the City of London.
Henry VIII gate at St. Bartholomew’s Hospital
Once through the gate, you can stroll around the tranquil square.
Peace within St. Barts, Smithfield
As you head back out of the gate to the right, take a look at the stone wall arches. You’ll notice scars from the First World War; these were created by Zeppelin raids on 8th September 1915 and on 7th July 1917.
Scars from the Great War, Smithfield
If you've yet to discover London and its ancient history, then let's start planning. I find these DK Eyewitness Travel Guides invaluable. They're extremely informative, easy to follow, and the pictures and maps tempt you into discovering more of those fascinating sites.
You can now grab a recently revised copy of this guidebook, so you won't miss a thing.
Dark times in London
The Murkier side of SmithfieldWell, now comes the darker side of Smithfield, the hangings, stabbings and its sordid past.
One of the most well-known executions here was that of Sir William Wallace.
After his trial in August 1305, Wallace was dragged naked by a horse across the city, then horrifically hung, drawn and quartered.
A plaque marking the spot near where Sir William Wallace was executed stands very modestly on the side of St. Barts wall.
William Wallace Memorial
Wat Tyler and John Ball Memorial
On 15th June 1381, Wat Tyler, the leader of the Great Rising (Peasants’ Revolt), believed he had come to an agreement with King Richard II to end the Rebellion.
Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be; he was then stabbed and also beheaded near this spot by the then Mayor of London.
Like William Wallace, Tyler’s severed head was displayed on top of a pole on London Bridge.
Tube Station Walks
We love to explore London on foot; a great way to break it into bite-sized pieces is to pick an underground station.
Why not browse our posts on tube station walks to find out what we uncovered in different districts?
London’s oldest church
and a bit of a movie starOn a cheerier note, just opposite is London's oldest surviving church, St Bartholomew-the-Great, founded in 1123 AD. There is an incredible half-timbered gatehouse you pass through to arrive at the entrance of the church.
St Bartholomew-the-Great Gatehouse
St Bartholomew-the-Great church
Once inside, you may recognise it from the films Four Weddings and a Funeral & Shakespeare in Love.
Medieval London
Cloth FairParallel with the church is “Cloth Fair”, another lane in London oozing with history. Formerly an area for the annual Bartholomew Fair. The fair was established in 1133 and became three days of merrymaking, which over the centuries became very debauched and drunken, with plenty of ne’er-do-wells, it was eventually closed in 1855.
No. 41 & 42 Cloth Fair
Cloth Fair, Smithfield
Along Cloth Fair, you’ll see numbers 41 and 42; these are the oldest residential buildings within the current boundaries of the City of London.
In no. 43 Cloth Fair, Sir John Betjeman, the Poet Laureate, lived for 20 years from 1954.
Sir John Betjeman the Poet Laureate – Blue Plaque
You may have noticed the blue plaque for Sir John Betjeman; there's a few hundred years of history in these blue plaques, so keep a lookout for them as you explore the streets of London.
Drink in the history of London
An alehouse for 500 yearsA little further at the corner of Middle Street, you’ll arrive at The Hand & Shears public house. This pub was established in 1532, so, has been on this site for almost 500 years.
The Hand & Shears Est. 1532
Unfortunately, we didn’t get the opportunity to pop in. At the bottom of the sign, it proudly states that this pub is the “Last Ales before Newgate Public Executions” handy to know!!!
Explore London on foot
If you enjoy finding out a little more about London's districts, take a look at the articles we created for the different regions we've explored, all easily discovered on foot.
You’ll love it
Explore LondonJust on our little jaunt around Smithfield, covering hardly any distance at all, we discovered centuries and centuries of history. We love strolling around London, and Smithfield for a history buff keeps on giving.
Have You?
Visited any of London’s fascinating districts with so much history, we’d love to hear about them?
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What a great tour! I am not so sure about severed heads but the roof of the market looks amazing! #FarawayFiles
It’s incredible that all of this history was just within a few streets of each other. I love it that Smithfield Market is sill busy, it’s good to see.
Such a fascinating history! I had never heard of Smithfield, let alone about it being the place where William Wallace was executed.I love the photos of the traditional pubs, they are beautiful!#farawayfiles
It’s amazing that we walk past some of these things everyday and don’t always realise whose footsteps we’re walking in.
Never heard of Smithfield, but I’m definitely interested in checking it out now! Love the Smithfield Market’s pastel colors and the oldest church! I felt like I recognized the Tudor arch and then saw your movie appearances! Love Shakespeare in Love! #FarawayFiles
Yes, this area is mostly known for the Smithfield meat market, but it wasn’t until I dug a little deeper, that more and more emerged. You just don’t realise how often some of these places are used in movies.
Lovely!! I remember visiting Smithfield, but really didn’t take such beautiful photos like you did!!#FarawayFiles
Ahh, thanks very much, it’s a really interesting part of London.